There is something slightly mischievous about going to eat at a closed door restaurant – a sense of adventure. Thrill-seeking. It’s because you aren’t really visiting a restaurant, you are being invited into someone’s living room. That you don’t choose the menu, it’s put together for you. And that you don’t ask for the bill at the end, you leave a ‘donation’ in a little envelope on the desk by the front door.
My first experience of a closed door restaurant or supper club as many prefer to call it (though I think that sounds more smutty!) was in Buenos Aires where a large number of friends and I took over a couple’s little flat in Palermo. Since then, as I travelled through Asia, the excitement of trying another supper club waned as I didn’t come across any suggestions for similar experiences.
So when recently a colleague recommended a supper club in East London, I jumped at the chance to try it. The fact that it was Vietnamese in cuisine only heightened the anticipation. When recently people have asked which part of the world was my favourite to visit in the last year of travel, the answer has always been Vietnam. Other than the long, stunning coastline, the food in Vietnam really captivated my tastebuds. And besides, it’s the lengthy coastline in Vietnam which provides the copious quantities of seafood, which I totally fell in love with.
In the top three of all experiences in my life, is sitting on little plastic stools at the food section of Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi MInh city, surrounded by colourful vats of food and slithering fish being sold for wholesale. At this little stall, we’d point at this shellfish or that and wash it down with a glass of fragrant Dalat blanco.
Fernandez & Leluu live in London Fields and organise suppers a couple of times a fortnight. The house is narrow and when you enter it, you would be forgiven for thinking that there might only be a small gathering for the supper club. In fact, Leluu manages to fit 26 people in her narrow sitting room. Mind you, the crowdedness adds to the titillation of sitting next to strangers. You are invited to bring your own wine and Leluu points you to the seats she’d like you to take. There is a hint of seating arrangements as though you were at a wedding.
A couple of minutes after taking our seats and popping open the first bottle of the ‘Fat Bastard’ Pinot Noir (if you book to go here, I recommend you buy wine elsewhere as there is limited choice close to the supper club), a couple came and joined us at our table. Whether this really was deliberate on Leluu’s part or not, we were delighted to have the company of an energy trader and his Vietnamese girlfriend. It turned out that the Vietnamese girlfriend was in fact Danish-born and a budding shoe designer. The conversation flowed easily and the first course arrived.
By far my favourite course of the eight served this evening was this simple appetiser of fish cakes. These were served with radish leaves and a sweet chilli sauce to dip into. These delicious little morsels of food gave way to starters. First a puff pastry with creamed chicken, mushrooms and sweet peas – the French influence taken care of.
Then slices of barbecued pork with spiced vermicelli which we agreed lacked heat. Then other bits and pieces, which if I am honest, I am struggling to remember. As we went through the courses, we found they were tasty but sanitised for a Western palate. The flavours that stand out in Vietnamese cooking for me are lime, coriander and chilli – fresh and bursting on your tongue. Though I could tell that the food was prepared with care, it just didn’t have the zinginess I associate with Vietnamese cuisine.
In the middle of the courses, the Pho arrived. At our table, we had speculated whether this elephant would make an appearance. With a mixture of anxiety and trepidation I took the large bowl of soup from Leluu. The broth tasted like homemade chicken consomme and there was a large portion of noodles sitting in it with slices of cooked beef. The broth was tasty but lacked depth. A plateful of mixed leaves and herbs and more wedges of lime to add to the soup would have improved the dish greatly.
At this point, the sequence of courses took an interesting turn when we received a large bowlful of prawn crackers at the table with a salad of grated chicken, carrot and banana blossom. The crackers were crisp and spicy and really rather good. The salad I found to be really rather offensive to my palate – the texture of banana and chicken with grated carrot was vile.
We were feeling very full at this stage but managed to taste mouthfuls of the next couple of courses including goujons of steak wrapped in betel leaves and breathed a sigh of relief at seeing the last course arrive at the table.
A scoop of avocado and coconut ice cream served with a couple of cubes of melon. This dessert sounds a lot more exotic than it tastes. Perhaps it was the blandness of the dishes it followed which left me impartial to this last course. Perhaps I came with too high expectations. Given this was my first Vietnamese meal after visiting the country last year, it was most likely the latter.
For the last few weeks, we have really struggled to find something good to eat for lunch, as have many of our friends here in Buenos Aires. Supermarkets aisles are full of slabs of beef or plastic cheese and ham. And I can’t face eating at a parilla at both meal times. Good sandwich places are few and far between which leaves good (more suited for dinner) restaurants or bad lunch cafes which pretty much only serve milanesa (flattened beef, breaded and fried or baked, often with cheese and ham slabbed on top). I tried the milanesa twice and don’t care to order it again.
One lunch time we tried out our local cafe which was brimming with people ordering the Menu del Dia, so we decided to try it out. The ‘executive menu’ basically consisted of a main, a drink and a coffee. Perfect for lunch you would think. There were only two mains to choose from so we ordered one each. One was the dreaded milanesa and the other a chicken dish. The Milanesa was like cardboard topped with plastic ham with a kilo of fried potatoes. The chicken was worse. I know I can be quite fussy about food but I was really hungry and have rarely eaten chicken which isn’t edible. This however was. In Argentina, chickens are huge – they are almost cocks (!). Secondly, they always feel like they are taken off the heat just before totally cooked, so the meat nearest to the bone is still slimy and pink. My quarter chicken was such an example. The skin was left on but it was white, not sizzled or browned at all. The chicken portion was topped with warmed up salad cream. And the whole lot was dished up with another kilo of potatoes!
So in my quest for places to lunch, I stumbled across Sudestada. A Vietnamese restaurant which is mid-price range in the evenings but serves up a lunch deal of two courses and a drink for Arg$36 (around £6). As you can see from the photo of the menu card, the menu is short with just choices of starters and half a dozen mains. We have tried pretty much everything on this menu (eaten there each lunch time just in the past three days!).
The choice between the starters is pork dumplings in sweet soy sauce with fresh strands of ginger and spring onions. The minced pork meat is soft and gently flavoured with ginger and 5 spice, the rice dough covering the soft meat is light in comparison to the other dumplings I have tried here. The portion is geneous with 4 healthy sized dumplings.
The second choice of starters is a fritura verdura – basically fried vegetables held together by a light batter – like an onion bhaji. This is also tasty if a little greasy.
For mains, you can choose between beef, pork, chicken and fish – this is given the limited choice in most Argentine restaurants (basically beef, beef, or beef. OK, sometimes cheese!). The pork comes with flat rice noodles and the rest with rice. All dishes have different flavours but all remind me of good Vietnamese restaurants back in London. They use a lot of fresh vegetables and herbs so the flavours are big and the meal feels healthy.
I like that there is a long window from the restaurant into the kitchen and diners can view the kitchen staff preparing food. Everything looks clean and fresh and busy.
Now just need to find another couple of restaurants like this before the waiters start to feel they are being stalked!