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The dead centre of Buenos Aires

Ghostly trees outside Recoleta cemetery

All Buenos Aires guide books highly recommend a visit to La Recoleta Cemetery. As well as being located in the rich and leafy neighbourhood of Barrio Norte, the cemetery boasts the graves (more like Mausoleums) of several presidents of Argentina. But the most famous dead resident of La Recoleta Cemetery has to be Evita.

So one afternoon, with nothing else to do, we headed to Barrio Norte, taking a gentle stroll from Bulnes station and stopping for some coffee on the way. Everything I read about Recoleta (in the 18th century Franciscan Monks felt the place was tranquil and good for ‘recollection’ and set up a monastery here) has said this is where all the old money lives as well as housing pretty much all of the 5 star hotels. Walking down Avenida General Las Heras, I have to admit, I thought Palermo felt a lot nicer. Once we turned into Azcuenaga however, we were met with a very high wall behind which I could spythe top of some mausoleums.

High and mighty - Mausoleums for the rich and powerful portenos!

Final resting place of Eva Peron

We had found ourselves diagonally opposite the entrance and had to walk around the entire periphery of the cemetary to gain entrance. The official entrance is through imposingly high neo-classical columns however this is always shut and instead we went through a small hole in the cemetery wall! One of the peripheral streets – Vincente Lopez had a row of ghostly looking trees! 

The cemetery itself is impressive, though not nearly as grand as Pere Lachaise in Paris, nor as impressive as the cemetery I visited in Patagonia with Lisa back in 2007. Even though it is clearly what people come to see, Evita’s grave is not even sign-posted or ppointed out because the cemetary officials are uneasy about her presence! The grave is apparently cemented in so that it cannot be robbed!

When Evita died, her body was transported to several different places to be hidden in the daysa fter her death and there are several conspiracy theories regarding where her body might actually be.

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