Home > Food, Greece > The prettiest bay in the Cyclades – Sifnos

The prettiest bay in the Cyclades – Sifnos

Having boarded a 7.30 ferry from Piraeus (Athens) we reached Sifnos three hours later on the Speedrunner4. Following around the coastline of the island we turned into a bay – Kamares – the major port of the island. The town curves around the sheltered bay which, though a port, has transparent turquoise Dinner at the taverna on Kamares baywaters. Apparently it’s one of the cleanest beaches in Greece. Shuffling out of the port with our backpacks, we went past several cafes advertising rooms and stopped by to ask for vacancies. After a few restaurants we came by a lady who took us up the hill and showed us a studio with a balcony looking out over the bay.

Kamares and the entire Sifnos island in general is exactly as you might have imagined if you had never been to a Greek island. A curving bay inclining gently inland with whitewashed buildings of  restaurants all along the seafront and houses perched higher up the hill. In fact we never saw a building which was not white in all of Sifnos. The shutters are all painted the same bright blue too and you wonder whether there is a law against using any other colours. More likely that the islanders want to preserve the traditional vista given that tourism accounts for almost 100% of their GDP. Don’t get me wrong, it’s very pretty but I wondered if no one on the island might want say a red house or a black door.

The half a dozen bays around the island are towns with identically painted houses but their own feel – Kamares is a port; Platis Ghialis boasts the majority of the high-end accommodation; Faros is tiny with food shacks around the small bay; Cheronisos is at the bottom of a steep rock face. All have a tavernaor

A fishing boat at Chirosenos bay

three serving identical menus of Moussaka, Souvlaki, Greek Salad, Imam (baked aubergines), Okra, stemmed weed and grilled meat. All also advertise fresh fish but as you may have read in the previous post these start at €45 per kilo and steeply rise for a decent fish. Strangely the quality of the food at each taverna is pretty similar too though I guess there isn’t much you can do with grilled meat or baked vegetables. All tastes fresh and go down very well with a glass of the local vino which comes in the quantities of kilos (Greeks don’t seem to differentiate the words for solid and liquid measures!).

We enjoyed Sifnos very much and in retrospect (now in Naxos), should have spent a little longer there. But it was our first Greek island and we were excited to see more.

If you are thinking about visiting the Greek Islands, especially the Cyclades, you could do worse than spend time in Sifnos. Kamares is a very pleasant bay, with excellent swimming, a couple of good restaurants and great studio apartments. Many regard it as the prettiest bay in the whole of the Cyclades.

  1. September 16, 2011 at 06:17

    Sifnos was a fave and unchanged since I was last there, almost twenty years ago.Though the old lady in our favourite restaurant was slightly younger and had less of a tash.

  2. September 21, 2011 at 04:50

    Ah Sifnos! My favourite Greek Island by a mile! Did you stay at the Sifnaika Konaika apartments? They have that wonderful view you describe. A law passed in 1974 required houses in the Cyclades to be painted white and church domes to be painted blue! Enjoy your travels…

    • September 21, 2011 at 07:09

      Thanks for the comments Andrew. I thought there must have been a law! It’s all very pretty!

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