Living in Palermo Hollywood!

Palermo Barrios

Having settled into the apartment, we couldn’t wait to venture out to see a little of BA on the first day. It seemed obvious to start with the neighbourhood so walked all around Palermo. The apartment is in Palermo Hollywood which is the quieter neighbour of Palermo Viejo and Palermo Soho. Behind us (North) is Carranza station beyond which lies Las Canitas.

Years ago, Las Canitas was a slum but has seen upwardly mobile young people moving in making it trendier today. Towards west is the quieter neighbourhood of Belgrano where I am hoping to visit a ‘secret’ bar in the next few days. East is Palermo Viejo and South Palermo Soho – both are full of dozens of bars and restaurants. I have never seen so many concentrated into one area and each one seems to be doing brisk business. Perhaps it’s the season – pre-Christmas – but I get the feeling that Buenos Aires likes partying and never sleeps!

This morning (Sunday) there was no one around in the street til midday as portenos like to party from saturday night to mid-Sunday morning! A large majority of the cafes and breakfast places don’t even open their doors before mid-day! I need to change my rhythm and become a night owl. I was always up for partying but might have to shift up a gear.

I have learned that in order to party like the portenos one needs to change two habits – eating and sleeping. Portenos eat six or seven times a day – basically grazing and snacking instead of eating three big meals like Europeans. This not only gives the portenos their svelte figures but also means they are not full up and tired after to go out. As for sleeping – a nap in the afternoons plus sleeping til the early afternoons on weekends means they can go out all night.

Typical saturday night out will see portenos go home from work at six, snack and sleep for a couple of hours. At eleven o clock they will meet up with their friends for dinner and after a two hour leisurely dinner, think about which bar, club or milonga (tango place) to hit first.

As it’s only been a couple of days in BA, I haven’t yet got used to this routine, though I am working on it. Talking of which, I think it’s time for my afternoon nap before I head out to San Telmo to watch tango in Plaza Dorrego, where many of the ship’s passengers are meeting up tonight for a reunion.